Think different

There are two well-known statues in Kidderminster. The first is of Rowland Hill, who in effect invented the Royal Mail with his idea for the Penny Post that allowed you to send a letter anywhere in the country.

The inscription on the pedestal reads: "To his creative mind and patient energy the world is indebted for the Penny Postage introduced 1840." Witherspoon's pub in Kidderminster is called "The Penny Black".

The other statue, just next to the lock, is of Richard Baxter.

This remarkable theologian and pastor worked for many years at the time of the English Civil War, as the minister of the church of St Mary and All Saints (behind him in the picture). In a period of much controversy, both political and theological, he attempted to be a unifying force, while never ignoring or fudging the hard thinking that had to be done. His books are still read today, with considerable benefit.

We stayed last night at Wolverley, and whoever was responsible for their church building was also thinking different.

It's an Italianate style, and I can't say that I cared particularly for either its exterior or its interior, but it certainly stands out, in its setting high above the village. The houses below live in another sort of dialogue with the  sandstone outcrops that are such a feature of this area, and rear of some of the houses, like those we saw at Holy Austin yesterday, are in effect caves in the hillside.

Those who created the Staffs and Worcs also had to think different, faced with new and specific challenges. Coming through the cut in the sandstone late last evening was a very special experience, though the light was so hard to capture with the camera.

Thinking different – not always easy when people at large have standardised ways of seeing the world.

Holy Austin

No, not my friends Mark and Julie, though they certainly are. Above Kinver sits an outcrop of sandstone which carries this name.

In this outcrop are several caves, natural and man-made.

In these caves, houses were made, in which people were living until the 1930s.

Some of the interiors seemed fairly basic.

The smoke feeds out through a roughly hewn chimney.

Other parts have been restored to how people remember them pre-war.

 Some have definitely been touched up and made extremely cosy.

The houses sit on three levels, and the views from the front door are stunning.

There are high quality wells near, and the interiors are warm in winter and cool in summer.

Although records are hard to come by, families appear to have lived in these stone houses for about 3 centuries. There are stories from the 18th century about hospitality offered to travellers, and from the 19th century about the residents capitalising on the popularity of Kinver as a destination for a railway outing or Sunday School picnic, offering tea and cakes and the use of "the facilities", for a suitable price.

So whence the "Holy Austin" name? No one really knows, but since the name dates back several hundred years, it is assumed that at some point an Augustinian hermit might have lived in the caves. Before they were upgraded, of course.

Kinver Edge

Did 8 miles today – on foot. Erin Mae stayed put. We went up Kinver Edge.

The name applies both to the escarpment, from which you can see for miles around,

and to the general heath area which functions as an invaluable leisure resource.

Just as well it was a terrible day for taking long-distance photos…

…it meant it was a bit cooler for walking. The highest point we hit today was Nanny's Rock. So says the map – we never saw the rock, but this oak tree was standing right at the junction as we turned left onto the Staffordshire Way.

This part of the Edge is dotted with seats looking out across the drop. One commemorated a jazz player…

…while another honoured a soldier lost five years ago, and some had just a name or nickname.

We crossed the county boundary a couple of times, and came back via parts of the North Worcestershire Way. This moved us into farming and then equine country. A curious foal came to say hello.

Walking down the side of the Sladd Estate we passed this building. 

The holes made it look like a dovecote from a distance. As we got nearer it seemed to be some sort of well-aerated barn, but I'm not sure it wasn't being used as a garage. Earlier in the day we'd encountered another garage which provoked some mirth.

The notice each side of the doors reads:

For me, 8 miles on the hoof today means I'm praying there are no emergencies tonight.

Foxes have holes…

…and the birds of the air have nests – but who's been sleeping in my – er – facility?

And the facility in question…

The notice was pinned to the inside of the door!

Other buildings in Kinver have rather more charm…

The nearest one is home to an architect's practice, and has this plaque on the wall…

Our walk into Kinver today was partly to furnish us with the wherewithal for tomorrow's lunch, when we're out on Kinver Edge and the environs. The walk takes us past the picturesque Hyde Lock…

It was only as we came back today that we saw what the owner / tenant of the cottage has done with his garden gates.

At the end of a lazy day, Erin Mae is a very nice place to lay our heads.

Not movin' on

Our mooring has lots going for it,

so we've decided to stay, make the most of Kinver, walk Kinver Edge on Wednesday, visit the Holy Austin rock houses on Thursday (the earliest they'll be open), and run the engine when we have to. Meanwhile there are others staying put, as well.

This moorhen appeared to be engaged in construction of something under the overhang. Since there were also some batches of moorhenlings in tow – would they be nesting again so soon?

On our walk back from inspecting the visitor moorings below Kinver lock, we said hello to Andrew and Kathryn (her blog is here) on NB Polyphony. It was the boat's name that prompted the encounter – there had to be a musical conversation in there somewhere! And so it transpired – lots of music in their family. Kathryn's own forte is singing, and it was interesting to get her take on what I might do about the rusting away of my own voice. Nice to meet you, guys – hope you get a nice balance between the rest of your break, and the need to get back for that meeting.

Hm… since we're not movin' on, might get the guitar out in the cratch this evening.

The Bratch

The distance between each of the three locks in The Bratch flight is no more than a couple of yards – must be the shortest pounds in the whole of the network. Each is connected by a culvert to a side pond, which acts as a reservoir during operation.

We were assisted by Mark, the lock-keeper,

who maintained the BW / CaRT tradition of lock-keepers being friendly, knowledgeable and helpful, and of not selling sandwiches! Thanks for your help, Mark – much appreciated.

The locks along this stretch have some other concealed features, such as these circular weirs, feeding overflow water down to the next level.

As we pushed on towards Kinver, the countryside began to change, with a more hilly aspect on one side,

and the bare but attractive sandstone side to the channel on the other.

Kinver Edge has some good walking and some ancient rock houses. Unfortunately they're not open, Mon, Tues, Wed at this time of year. So we have a decision to make – will we stay close until Thursday, or forego the delight this time? We wouldn't mind staying, but we need to keep Erin Mae's batteries charged, and running the engine for several hours a day just for this purpose seems wasteful. It's an issue we'll face elsewhere, and perhaps soon, so we're thinking about adding some solar panels. If anyone has a recommendation of a good firm to talk and deal with, we'd be very glad to hear it.

Wightwick

"Wittick", they say. Much easier, less pompous. But it doesn't really do justice to Wightwick Manor, which we visited this morning. From the front,  as you look up from the sundial…

you can see the styles that a well-heeled, aesthetically-minded Victorian felt appropriate to grace his family home.

For this was built around 1890, for Theodore Mander. What is particularly fascinating is the contrast, and yet the harmony, with the interior, which we weren't allowed to photograph. In spite of his wealth having originated in the industrial revolution via a successful paint and varnish manufacturing business, Mander had bought into the philosophy of the Arts and Crafts movement, and the interior is full of William Morris. It is also full of interesting design details from the period – contrasts of lighting as you move between different areas, nooks and crannies (which, I discovered today, were a particularly Victorian feature), a very particular attention to what objets d'art should adorn the walls and shelves. All this in the context of a house very clearly designed for a wealthy Victorian household. I found it hard to judge whether the fact that the attention to aesthetics extended only in part to the children's rooms, and hardly at all to the kitchens and laundry, was due to practical considerations or to a lack of idealism about whether it could be appreciated.

Whatever, we found this a very enjoyable visit. Walking back to Erin Mae, we wanted to buy some potatoes to go with a roast chicken, and had heard there was a small Co-op somewhere. We asked directions from a couple who lived in one of the houses that had been built as servants' quarters for the estate. They said "What! Walk all the way down there just for some potatoes? You can have some of ours!" So, Jan and Mick – thanks a bundle. They're cooking as I write!

And where I'm writing is in yet another of those fabulous places, with evening birdsong in the air, and a field of something green just across from where we have tied up. June 1st has been a sunny day.