Moles, mink and memories on the Monty

For many years, in my study at Moorlands College, I had a picture of the New Forest snake catcher, given to me by a student who thought they saw a similarity to their esteemed tutor. Modesty (believe it if you will) prevents me reproducing the picture here. Suffice it to say he bore more than a passing resemblance to this character we passed yesterday, as we meandered quietly back to Ellesmere.

Today, having come down Frankton locks onto the Montgomery canal, we found the fruits of another catcher's labours.

The mole catcher was clearly concerned to demonstrate that he's worth what they're paying him – so 16 moles and two mink hung from the barbed wire. For those who know, it was gruesomely reminiscent of Duncton Wood.

We were also catching today – catching up with our friends Roger and Mirjana, in whose boat Jireh we first experienced the Monty 8 or 9 years ago.

They helped us (and the lock keeper) as we dropped down the flight which includes a staircase,

passing this garden which incorporates the dry dock where Tom Rolt's boat Cressy was converted for leisure use in 1929.

R & M then came to lunch. Hope to see them tomorrow night for some music-making at Maesbury.

Chirk castle delights

It was a long walk up to Chirk castle – 3 miles by the route they sent us on. If the signs had been clearer, we could have gone by the vehicular exit route, which is only a mile and a half – though it would have been pretty consistently and tiringly uphill. In the end it was worth every ache.

It's quite imposing as you approach from below, though in a friendly sort of way as most of the arrow slits have been replaced by paned windows.

Selwyn, standing guard, gave us a warmer welcome than the 2nd Sir Thomas Myddleton had offered the Royalist troops who took possession for a while. He found the castle difficult to re-capture because he didn't want to bombard the edifice his father had bought for £5000!

Part of the mediaeval fortress section survives. Sir Thomas's room:

The convenience stop / long drop.

Dungeon

with enticing designer staircase

and miscreant awaiting their just deserts (or just dessert).

The section converted for more regular residence has much in common with other National Trust properties – displays of period furniture, period art and laundry equipment. But some of the contents brought particular delight. The 1742 Burkat Shudi harpsichord:

The library had been intelligently stocked and is the subject of much conservation and care.

However, for me, the star of the show was this 1882 Broadwood grand piano.

In its time, it has been played by George Gershwin, Cole Porter, Noël Coward and Winston Churchill.

And now by yours truly.

Chirk duck

Never seen it quite like this before. Thinking we'd visit Chirk castle tomorrow we came north, yet again, and moored up in the cutting just after Chirk tunnel (that's now 7 times across the aqueduct and through the tunnel). We walked into Chirk to get fresh veggies for tea. It turned out the Co-op was just over mile away at the other end of the town, so we had a bit more exercise than we'd bargained for. When we got back, guess who had turned up to take us under their wing.

Later they returned, making "Feed me" signs through the kitchen window

Both of them were rather heavy with egg, we think, though the father was nowhere to be seen.

And now, just in case any readers don't know the Pontcysyllte aqueduct which got a mention yesterday, here's what it looks like as you approach it (and yes, there are only about 2 inches separating you from a 125 foot drop on the left hand side).

And here's a view down into the valley as you get near the other side.

But no photos can do justice to the sheer terror of being there and trying to control Erin Mae, with a strong current coming at you and a gale force cross-wind. Four times in three days. No wonder we needed a lie-in this morning.

Aqueducts and tunnels

Chirk aqueduct, Chirk tunnel and Whitehouse tunnel 6 times each in four days. Pontcysyllte aqueduct 4 times in the same period. Is that something of a record?

Record or not, it was busy enough to mean no blog posts! Brother and sister-in-law arrived on Thursday morning, and we all headed off to Llangollen. As expected, the weather was horrible, and hearts are in mouths as you look down 120 feet from the aqueducts, but there's very little that can happen. Especially with Erin Mae slowing down so much in the adverse current. By evening the rain had relented enough for us to eat out at the Bridge End Hotel. Next morning we had a dry walk to the Horseshoe Falls and back, before the return journey to our Lyon Quays base, and Ivan and Irene left for their caravan again.

The next morning (Saturday) nephew David and family arrived from Chester, where we'd had such a great day last year. Lewis and Charis learned a new knot and renewed their acquaintance with the tiller bar. Once again we travelled over the aqueducts and through the tunnels, this time threading our way through the stacked Anglo-Welsh boats at Trevor to wind Erin Mae in the hole beyond. Alas, by now there was a procession coming across the Pontcysyllte, and we must have waited more than half an hour before we could start back. Because of the conditions I'd removed the chimney and its rain hat. Needn't have bothered. A gust blew the rain hat off the roof and into the canal while we were crossing the Chirk aqueduct, so that's another contribution to some chandler's pension fund.

Back at Lyon Quays overnight we awaited the arrival of long-standing friends Steve and Una, accompanied by Joel and Ruth. We hadn't been sure we would go out, but by now we needed a pump-out, so off we went up-stream again to Chirk marina. Time constraints meant winding before the Pontcysyllte this time.

A great few days catching up. Tying up for good home-made grub, nattering inside or out as you travel. Opportunities for others to enjoy some of the fun of boating, and a bit of time just to be, together.

We shall sleep well tonight. In spite of the entertainment at the third wedding in so many days at the Lyon Quays who have proved so welcoming.

Donegal sky

We've made it to the Lyon Quays Spa / Hotel, just before Chirk, where we've arranged to meet my best beloved's brother and sister-in-law tomorrow and take them for a sleepover. Unfortunately they appear to have brought the Donegal sky across with them. A poet friend of mine wrote of Donegal: "This is my magic ground". She would spend summertime there, loving the colours and the contrasts, and never mind the rain. That, after all, is a part of its character and charisma.

But as we look at the forecast for tomorrow, the question will be whether we  tackle the Pontcysyllte aqueduct, 330 yards long, 126 feet above the River Dee valley, with Erin Mae 2 inches from the drop on one side, when the BBC website is promising strong winds and heavy rain. We might be tempted to spend the day in Chirk tunnel!

For tonight, the sky has cleared, as it does in Donegal, and it's a fine evening. Supper's in the pot.

Bridge 53

Canal bridges suffer through the ravages of time, general decay and the not-so-loving attention of boats that got the line wrong. Some of those on the Llangollen have been patched up by, among other measures, a coating of concrete or similar cement-based concoction all over the interior of the arch. It's about as enthralling as a 1960's tower block. So what a pleasant surprise to see what one artisan has done with Bridge 53.

There seems to be no constructional link between the wavy edge and the curved pattern in the coating through the arch – just one person making a statement.

Back through the bridge is something even more impressive – it's Lyneal wharf, the centre for the Lyneal Trust, which offers canal and boating holidays for people with disabilities. NB Shropshire Lass and NB Shropshire Lad, two of their boats, were both moored there today. So, in quick succession, two examples of people making a difference in situations where others might give up or simply not see the need.

Two characters from yesterday…

When asked they said they were looking for St George's mushrooms. I thought perhaps they might be the "magic" variety. Not so. The Wikipedia article says they are a renowned delicacy that appear after St George's Day.

Other sights from today: The wood anenomes were out in force…

The blossom was out in force at the entrance to Ellesmere tunnel…

The ramblers were out in force…

You see people doing various creative things on the towpath, but this was the first time I'd seen anyone working in stone…

We stopped for the night outside the Jack Mytton pub, recommended for all sorts of things. The bad news – it was shut today. The good news – this meant there was no one around at all to mind as I got out my accordion and practised all those new tunes to my heart's content.

Two Johns

Getting up the Grindley Brook staircase locks is potentially scary. The key is to get enough water into the middle / bottom pair. We didn't realise we were a few inches short of the right level, and I couldn't get across the boundary. My best beloved went to look for the lock-keeper John, but he was having his lunch! However, a man on the towpath, whose name we did not discover, knew all about it. John came back as we were sorting it out, and told us a horrendous story of someone who got caught last summer. Very reassuring!

John and unknown friend

After the staircase there were no more locks today, but four lift bridges instead, which are much harder work!

Tonight tied up overlooking a valley, peaceful in the evening sun, we were getting settled in, when down the cut came a second John, in the craziest craft I've seen all week. He's doing a canal tour, raising money for Macmillan cancer, a charity from which he himself has benefited.

So he stopped and chatted for a while. It's a beautiful evening.