Stopped at Stretton Stop

As promised, Jamie turned up first thing this morning to examine the pump that extracts water from the shower tray.

Not only was he a knowledgeable boater and engineer, but also a guitarist, so we enjoyed chatting with him. But what would he say about the pump?

The relay in the junction box was working but the fuse, which was OK yesterday, had blown again – an indication that the fault was something inside the pump. He hoped it might be the impeller (relatively cheap and easy to fix) but eventually concluded it was the motor itself. Only solution unfortunately is a whole new pump – much more expensive, and hope it fits the space. So that's on order for tomorrow. And he also had a reason (and a remedy) for an apparently intact hose dribbling water in spite of having its Jubilee clip well tightened.

Meanwhile it's been getting unseasonably chilly sitting here in the boat. Since there's no point in having a rejuvenated stove if you don't use it, I eventually fired it up, and it warmed us through nicely!

Disturbances

A week ago I had to replace the fuse for the pump that drains our shower tray. Last night, the pump stopped working again. Not the fuse this time, and the relay gives a clunk when I press the switch. I fear it may be the pump itself which needs to be replaced. So we've stopped tonight at the home of Rose Narrowboats, a place called Stretton Stop, so their engineering department can check out the pump in the morning.

A nice little place, with a swing bridge across the canal, and miles of Warwickshire countryside behind us.

But you may observe, firstly, that Erin Mae is moored a foot or so from the bank; and, secondly, that I have two mooring lines set up at the stern. Not being able to moor close to the bank because of its profile, or underwater obstructions, means that we are very susceptible to being bashed around when any other boat passes. That's the reason for the spring – the second line at the stern – which is doing at least something to ameliorate the problem, by restricting Erin Mae's movement.

Unfortunately, the other issue is a different sort of line – the main rail line about 20 yards beyond the opposite bank, with a regular stream of passenger and goods traffic. I've traced the line on the map, and been amazed to see how closely it follows the route of the canal from Rugby all the way to Rugeley, from whence a branch takes trains right past our home marina at Great Haywood. It's a reminder of how closely interlinked were the canals and the emerging railway companies in the early days.

It's the goods or maintenance trains in the night that are the sleep-interrupters. But we have no choice – that shower pump awaits attention in the morning. I probably shan't hear a thing. But my best beloved's hearing, sadly, is more finely attuned to such disturbances.

Goodbye to Coventry

Last night a couple from another boat were out on the wharf in Coventry Basin singing songs to a banjo, so I took my accordion across to join in. I didn't know any of their repertoire – quite a lot of American railroad numbers – but was able to play along, and we had a good time. Annoyingly, I completely forgot to get the names of either themselves or their boat – hope we meet up again sometime.

This morning it was time to pack up and leave. Past the Ricoh arena, less visible from the canal than the two Manchester stadia,

under the M6,

and up to Hawkesbury junction where, once again, a large boat was blocking the way.

Unlike last time, this was no novice. It was just that he was wanting to wind a very long boat. At one point he even invited me to use Erin Mae to push his nose around, partly so that we could slip by the side, under the bridge and onto the Oxford Canal.

This seems to be junction, not just for the Oxford and Coventry canals but also, just round the corner(s) for all the local high voltage power lines.

This evening we're nestled up in a spot that feels a bit more remote, though still just within sound range of the M6.

We're hoping all the electricity in the air won't fry us in the night!

Rakshabandhan

Two new words for me (Rakshabandan and Mela), both tied up with Hindu culture. I have no intention of attempting to explain either the words or the link to a 19th century peace-making event, which I was told of yesterday. But today's festival, held in the canal basin, had the support of a good many organisations, including the Coventry-based British Organisation for People of Asian Origin (BOPA). It was well attended by all sorts of folks.

Throughout the day in the main marquee there was a programme of mostly Asian music, heavy on the drums, which was very popular.

In addition to the craft and food stalls you'd expect, there were also a couple of crafty boats with their wares on display.

The military recruiting machine was out in force.

And in the middle, to my surprise, was Richard Parry, CRT's CEO, with other members of the CRT team. 

Richard, in my experience, is a very approachable person. This is the third time I've run into him (Leeds & Liverpool towpath in 2015, and at a BCF AGM) and it was good to chat briefly again about boating issues.

Late afternoon we went to the Cathedral for Choral Evensong. Quite a contrast!

Rainy day

It's been grey, and drizzly. So we went for a coffee at the Playwright's café on the Coventry Basin wharf.

We paid a visit to the Portuguese shop, also on the wharf, and chatted in Portuguese with the owner and her Brazilian friend.

And then we stayed under cover.

Meanwhile, various crews have been erecting scaffolding-framed stalls for a festival due to take place in the Basin tomorrow. Apparently it's an annual celebration of an historic occasion from 19th century India, when Hindu women and Muslim women stopped their menfolk fighting each other. Covid stopped them holding it last year, so everyone's looking forward to it. We've arrived at the right time to experience some of the culture of this city of culture. Especially if there's no fighting.

Hope it's a bit drier than today.

City of culture

Coventry is the 2021 City of Culture. So we thought we better experience a bit. Among the items on our visiting list today was Lady Godiva, who holds pride of place in the town centre.

Just on from there we found our first real target – the Herbert art gallery and museum. I didn't bother with a photo of the outside, and the items inside were not easy to capture. However they were really interesting. The gallery currently has a exhibition of 2 Tone music and culture. This was totally new to us, as we had just gone to work in Brazil when it took off at the end of the 70s, and had really finished by the time we returned. A mixture of Jamaican music and punk, and associated with both an anti-racism ethic and the protests surrounding the early Thatcher years. It was fascinating to find a bit of British culture that we had completely missed, and to see its deep association with Coventry.

Just back from the gallery towards the city centre is the cathedral. However well you know the story surrounding the bombing of the mediaeval cathedral, the extraordinary movement of reconciliation that followed, and the way that was captured in the construction of the new cathedral, the whole thing is incredibly impressive. A nice feature, given our family links to Norway, was a small organ, presumably played on just special occasions, given by Norwegian people as a mark of identification with what the cathedral stands for.

When we got back to Erin Mae, we found another cultural event taking place in the canal basin. The library boat NB Scribendi, for which we had had to move up a space last night, was doing a great job of encouraging people to get into books.

A folk band got going with some some original songs focussed on the Coventry canal.

There were lots of different activities for children, and crafty stuff for all. It wasn't terribly well attended – the sky was grey and it was Friday afternoon – but those who were there had a really good time.

Coventry Basin

Another grey day, but finally we were on our way to Coventry. There were one or two things to see on the way.

First was the entrance to the Ashby Canal – but we weren't going up there today.

I'm not sure this fella would go anywhere with a chimney that tall.

At Hawkesbury Junction there was a bit of a delay. We tried to fill the water tank, but the tap was the slowest we have ever encountered. Then we found some hirers having fun at the junction itself which, to be fair, can be a bit of a nightmare. We still don't really know what they were trying to do, but other boaters helped to pull them round when they got stuck. The boat just in front of us helpfully moved on and over so we could get through – our route was straight ahead.

Just beyond the junction is another water tap – not a lot quicker, but needs must. Four days till we can fill up again. The beasts on this bridge overlook the tap. To my eye the head of the big bird is more like a dinosaur than a swan!

Then it was on to new territory – the first time we've been on the Coventry stretch. It was mostly back-end urban and bleak, but with some surprises.

This was the first patch of water lilies, but not the last. The guy working on his boat quite enjoyed having his personal water garden!

After more than 3 hours travel we finally found the spot we'd booked (until Monday) in Coventry Basin. It's a decently worked area, with a statue of James Brindley (one of the early canal engineers), some shops and a coffee outlet. It will probably liven up at the weekend, and then we shall we wishing it hadn't.